For its Cruise 2025 presentation, Chanel embraced the romance of Italian elegance and cinematic nostalgia with a show staged at the iconic Villa d’Este on Lake Como. Set against a backdrop of blooming gardens and serene waters, the collection served as both a bridge and a breath—a refined interlude between the close of Virginie Viard’s tenure and the eagerly awaited debut of new creative director Matthieu Blazy this fall.
Though Blazy has yet to unveil his vision for Chanel, his presence looms quietly over the house’s creative transition. For now, the in-house design team crafted a collection that blends the brand’s heritage with a fresh, resort-ready sensibility—elevating classic motifs through contemporary styling and storytelling.
The setting was more than symbolic. Chanel’s ties to Italy, especially to Lake Como, run deep. Gabrielle Chanel herself had close connections to Italian cinema, counting director Luchino Visconti among her friends. The house’s ongoing support of European artisans was also spotlighted—highlighting long-standing collaborations with local craftspeople, such as the silk specialists at Mantero and shoemakers from Roveda.
Guests including Sofia Coppola, Lupita Nyong’o, and Keira Knightley were treated to an alfresco runway experience reminiscent of an upscale Italian café scene. Coppola, ever the storyteller, directed a short film for the occasion, enhancing the cinematic atmosphere. The show’s playlist—filled with vintage Italian hits—completed the dreamy Riviera narrative.
The 69-look collection played with lightness and luxury, channeling an effortless, lived-in glamour. Soft pastel taffetas, shimmering lamé stripes, and flowing jumpsuits exuded a carefree elegance. Signature Chanel elements were ever-present—tweeds, pearls, camellias—reimagined with delicate embroideries, beading, and sequin work that paid homage to the natural beauty of the Villa d’Este gardens.
Accessories were equally compelling: silk foulards were tied at the neck, wrist, ankle, and on bags; bejeweled minaudières sparkled with vintage flair; and a whimsical mini cupcake bag added a playful touch. Footwear offered colorful mules and flirty sandals that nodded to both tradition and trend, ensuring broad appeal—from Chanel loyalists to younger, style-forward Gen Z shoppers.
Despite the house being in flux, there was no sense of uncertainty in this collection. Instead, it offered clarity, poise, and a reverent nod to the codes of the maison. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel Fashion, emphasized that while the brand is entering a new chapter, its foundation in craftsmanship, elegance, and storytelling remains strong.
As Chanel awaits Blazy’s debut, Cruise 2025 is a masterclass in maintaining identity while embracing change—a picturesque pause on the lake before the winds of new creative energy sweep through Paris this October.
