Highlights from the fourth day of runway shows in Paris.
The fourth day of Paris Fashion Week took place this Thursday (September 26), featuring major names in the lineup, such as Chloé, Mugler, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli.
Check out the runway highlights!
Chloé kicked off the day with Chemena Kamali’s Spring-Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection, showcasing trends like puffed sleeves, transparency, balloon shapes, ruffles, tailoring, and utilitarian elements — all within the brand’s signature boho style. The main materials included silk, jersey, and lace.
The collection offered a range of pieces, such as flowy dresses, balloon skirts, t-shirts, jackets, vests, pants, jumpsuits, and bodysuits, in colors like white, black, gray, beige, pale green, blue, butter yellow, lavender purple, and red. Some items featured prints of roses and peonies derived from a 1977 painting. Completing the looks were Chloé’s signature belt and platform sandals.
“I wanted to capture that longing for summer and the way summer makes you feel—taking the essence of Chloé’s roots as a starting point, building new foundations, and capturing that fantasy moment of the summer months when you reconnect with yourself. When you pause, escape, explore, discover, and recharge. The mood is light, weightless, sensual, and joyful,” said the creative director.
For Mugler’s Spring-Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection, creative director Casey Cadwallader drew inspiration from the brand’s archives, revisiting a 1982 line of brightly colored petal-shaped dresses. He reinterpreted the concept with a darker twist, exploring floral forms in a palette of black, white, green, blue, and gray.
Petal-shaped necklines dominated corsets, blazers, dresses, and tops, while jackets were fastened with oversized pearls. The silhouette of flowers also inspired structured skirts and voluminous dresses featuring layers of organza and cinched waists, along with hand-painted patterns.
Photo credit: WWD
Photo credit: WWD
One standout piece was a conceptual dress adorned with crystal drops suspended on clear netting, complemented by a translucent PVC trench coat.
Photo credit: WWD
Photo credit: WWD
Rick Owens’ Spring-Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection, titled “Hollywood,” draws inspiration from the iconic boulevard, which represented a haven for outsiders and misfits. Referencing Lou Reed’s “Walk on the Wild Side” and the subversive cinematic worlds of Jack Smith, Kenneth Anger, and Ken Russell, the collection evokes a lost Hollywood of pre-Code black-and-white biblical epics, blending Art Deco elements with themes of sin and redemption.
Delicate silk chiffon capes paired with distressed denim cutoffs created a juxtaposition of fragility and ruggedness. Deflated boots, made in collaboration with London designer Straytukay, featured shin cargo packs. Organic silk and biodegradable cupro fabrics emphasized Owens’ commitment to sustainability.
Key pieces included black charmeuse robes by Dafne Balatsos, transposable jackets in recycled canvas by Bonotto, and knit gowns by Tanja Vidic. Denim goddess gowns with tarnished gold coatings were treated sustainably in an Italian washhouse to reduce water waste.
Photo credit: WWD
Photo credit: WWD
Schiaparelli’s Spring-Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection, titled “Future Vintage,” was also presented on the fourth day of PFW.
“At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters,” said creative director Daniel Roseberry.
The collection emphasized a tight waist silhouette, featured across various casual and formal pieces. The color palette included black, white, beige, brown, blue, yellow, red, mint green, and metallics. The lineup comprised bodysuits, pants, corsets, sheer draped dresses, cardigans, skirts, trench coats, blazers, voluminous coats, shorts, and shirts, with zebra, striped, and plaid prints making an appearance.
Schiaparelli’s iconic lock motif appeared as details on necklines and appliqués on tops, while ruffles and floral accents brought a lighthearted touch. Key materials included denim, knit, satin, and leather, blending timeless elements with modern touches to create a wardrobe designed to transcend generations.
